Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts

Sardinia III

7.16.2012

Authenticity. It's a word that comes to mind often in Europe, especially when it comes to food.

And Italian food does not get more authentic than being served by a kindly 70-something in her living/dining room, her husband ousted from his easy chair to make room for you and your dining companions just minutes before the first anitpasti is served.

This was all part of the package served up just next door from our agriturismo, at another B&B that welcomes visitors for dinner in less busy times of the year. And so it was that for 30 Euros person, we were treated to a five-course meal (wine and digestifs included) by Giuseppa, the lady of the house, and her elderly sister, who watched us eat with such a smile on her face it's as if she could taste the food herself.

Authentic, simple, and about the 100th reason why I will always travel - for experiences like this.

Giuseppa, the hostess/chef/surrogate mom



 Fellow dinner guests, Martin and Anna-Maria from Germany

 The rest of the eating area

This was far better than the photo suggests


A choice of homemade digestifs... firewater!

Sardinia II

6.13.2012


Upon arriving at the car rental counter at Olbia airport in the northern part of Sardinia, I was presented with the option of a Nissan Micra or Fiat Panda. I once heard that Fiat stands for “Fix it again, Tony”, so I went with the Micra. 
In hindsight, however, the Panda would have been a more apt choice because after about 10 minutes sharing the road with Italian drivers, I began to feel like an endangered species myself. I think the posted speed limits are actually the minimum speed you should be driving.
But we humans are an adaptable species. By the end of Day 1, I was speeding, cornering, downshifting, accelerating and tailgating like a pale, less hairy Andretti. By Day 2, car and driver had become one - anticipating each other's next moves, finishing each other's turns.

Day 3 brought us to Cala Gonone, about 2 hours south of Olbia, where you need to stop burning rubber and are no longer a landlubber. It is here that you can rent a boat - must rent a boat, actually, since you can only access the nearby beaches by water, as much of the area is an environmental reserve. This was another slice of paradise. Just when you think you’ve seen the nicest beach in Sardinia, there’s another one to discover the next day. 

You travel in a motorboat, looking something like a souped-up Zodiac, and can opt for self-piloting or for a guided tour. Emboldened by the driving experiences of the past few days, I opted for renting it on my own, with a very skeptical but trusting wife by my side.

The vehicle of choice for the day



Wild pigs (the friendly kind) came to greet us at one beach




It turned out to be easy and highly enjoyable. 60 Euros for a full day on the ocean, skirting the cliffs and caves, and dropping anchor whenever the urge strikes. The beaches were rockier than many in Sardinia, but it was still quite a way to spend the day.

Sardinia I

6.03.2012

Agriturismo. The word itself, like so many others of its Italian brethren, just sounds inviting. It's a word I hadn't heard before coming to Europe a few years ago, but it turns out it's the way to see Italy anytime you're outside the major cities. Part agriculture (you stay on a real farm or in farm-ish surroundings), part tourism, it's essentially a much cooler-sounding way of saying 'bed and breakfast'.

And so it was that I embarked on my first agriturismo experience to spend time on Sardinia, a large island west of Rome and mainland Italy in the Tyrrhenian Sea.

Oh, and it is also part of paradise. We knew we were on to something when we bought a map at the airport, and it listed over 500 beaches. But more on the beaches in the next post - for now we'll focus on the agriturismo part.

An Internet search months before landed us at l'Aglientu, a cozy agriturismo located about 15 minutes by car from Olbia, one of the larger cities on the island. It provides a nice bit of confidence for such a new experience when the owner of the place replies to your e-mail within the hour of your inquiry - Antonella at l'Aglientu did just that.

It was a perfect launching point for daily excursions to all other points on the northern part of the island (The south and west of the island was a bit far for our tastes, and with beaches everywhere nearby, the idea of spending some prime sun hours in a car held little appeal).

The rustic rooms were spacious, and clean the grounds were situated in postcard-perfect countryside (complete with chickens, wildflowers, and a family of basset hounds) and every morning breakfast was waiting in the outdoor nook.

And cheap! At not quite high season, 70 Euros a night for a better-than-hotel experience was a nice treat. Basically, it's exactly the kind of place that makes us northerners start fantasizing about selling all our worldly goods and starting up a small B&B, er, agriturismo of our own.






Breakfast waiting each morning 

Picked up some items during the day for an impromptu happy hour



Viva Italia

6.08.2010



Two perspectives on this weekend's De Smaak van Italie event near Utrecht, at the Kasteel de Haar. Each one valid in its own way.

Version 1

Wow, this place is great! Beautiful castle, serene setting, hundreds of booths serving up all manner of Italian delicacies, great wine everywhere.

Look at this celebration of cultures coming together - coffee booths, delicious sausages and cheeses and elaborate oils and sauces everywhere, right alongside friendly and talented Dutch artists and authentic knick-knack kiosks.

Thank you, cool Dutch cop, for calling a cab for us and making sure we got a fair deal.

Vespas and Ferraris on display, with Italian furniture it's like I'm strolling through Palermo. Look how warm and gracious every vendor is. Bellissima!



Version 2

This place blows. It took me two and a half hours, with a bike, a train, and a rip-off taxi ride to get here? 9 more Euros than the fare charged by the taxi in front of us? Hey Italians or Dutch or whoever is running this thing - a road sign, maybe a shuttle bus would be an idea for next year.

Mmm, bread and olive oil. At every second stall.

Nice castle - too bad it closes at four and no one told us. Lovely weather too - if the light were any flatter, it would be Kate Moss.

No, condescending coffee machine vendor - I don't know exactly which cup to use for the cappuccino machine. But thank you for scolding me nonetheless. You may just want to cut back on your own product though, lest your teeth get any more yellow.








A piece from Italian digital artist Tiziana - will update with full name if I can find it